Back in 2011 when I turned 21, my parents and I met some friends at Bourbon Steak in the MGM Grand. I couldn’t even go to the restaurant until the big day since you had to walk through the casino floor to get to the restaurant.
I planned that dinner and looked forward to it for what felt like forever, and it did not disappoint. Though I don’t remember all the details, I do remember the trio of duck fat fries, having drunken wagyu for the one and only time in my life to this day, the most amazing cornbread, and a fabulous waiter. Also I’m pretty sure Mom won $100 or $200 playing slot machines after dinner.
I loved Bourbon Steak, and sadly only made it back one other time before it and its very nearly equally fabulous sister restaurant Salt Water closed. Such is life in casinos, where some restaurant flourish and others are swapped out. Dad has also been to Bourbon Steak in Nashville, right before the pandemic.
And now, there is one in Orlando. This Bourbon Steak replaced Shula’s in the Dolphin Hotel on the Epcot side of Disney World. I had not explored the Dolphin much before my recent dinner. The hotel is quite gorgeous with a stunning fountain and chandelier centerpiece in the lobby as well as a bar. There are nooks and crannies with a coffee and quick service restaurant, a gift shop, and more restaurants downstairs.
Bourbon Steak is tucked down a few hallways. It’s a big restaurant with a bar and several dining rooms. It was bustling on the Friday night we visited. We were greeted at the host stand, being asked about our allergies, though I am not sure they were communicated to the wait staff. Because we were early, we were told we would have to wait at the bar until our reservation time.
This was a bit of a turn off to me, but we went to the bar anyway. We ordered the Bourbon Steak Old Fashioned and their Famous Martini. They were both great though the martini was the standout cocktail of the night. Service at the bar was impersonal and the bartenders seemed harried, never delivering on the promise of ice water and mixing up the bill, as we had to cash out before heading to our table for dinner.
Service for dinner was much better, though still lacked the finesse of a fine dining steak house. It was unevenly paced, with some parts moving too quickly and others slowing to a crawl, and like the bar felt too impersonal to me. The dining areas also don’t have that fine dining feel or the one I experienced over a decade ago at the Detroit outpost of the restaurant.
The duck fat fries are now served in lieu of bread. The trio is truffle fries with truffle aioli, herb with ketchup, and paprika with steak sauce. They were brought to our table literally the moment they sat down, and they were cold. I could tell the flavor was there and the sauces were all great, but the cold, soggy fries left a lot to be desired. If fries are going to be offered in this manner (and it is definitely a fun idea!), they need to be executed properly.
Luckily, from there the food improved a lot. The appetizers also came out a little too quickly, and the tuna tartar wasn’t my favorite, but the truffle treat pasta was a big hit, as was the black truffle bread. This is also a good place to note that unlike all the other Bourbon Steak locations this one does not feature steak tartar on the menu, nor does it have a selection of Wagyu, only the typical A5 striploin. The vast majority of locations also serve something called a caviar twinkie, but this one does not. It’s like Bourbon Steak with the volume turned down, and ultimately I think it’s what is keeping the restaurant from feeling like the true experience it should.
I did order the A5, and it was fabulous, despite the fact salt is visible on the plate, even though I asked for no salt and the waiter made a point of saying allergies and requests like no salt take extra time to prepare while we were waiting for our entrees.
The bibb lettuce salad was tasty, and the lobster pot pie was the stand out dish it should be with tableside presentation and tender and flavorful lobster.
Our other cocktails, the ring of fire and concrete jungle were excellent, and the bruleed basque cheesecake was absolutely outstanding with a crispy, crackly burnt sugar top, creamy cheesecake and fantastic strawberry sauce. I absolutely loved it and am now craving a piece as I type about it.
That said, unless the menu changes significantly as the restaurant comes into its own, I’m not sure I would return. It’s a shame that one of the restaurants on this iconic brand doesn’t live up to the hype or its name.
Leave a Reply